India - Day 8 - Friday 11th November

The alarm goes at 05.20, and we are sitting watching the fruit bats from the veranda by 05.50. There are only six of us this morning as this is an optional extra, and we go in a jeep rather than a cantor. It's more comfortable and has better visibility. 

We head for sector six this time, which means we use a different entrance into the park and have to pass through the old part of Ranthambore town. The terrain is different yet again, and we have wonderful views over the hills. Despite seeing fresh tiger prints neither we, nor the other vehicles in the sector, see any tigers, leopards or sloth bears. The scenery is lovely, and we see plenty of deer, antelope and birds, and we all thoroughly enjoy the outing.

We are back at the hotel around 10am, and enjoy an excellent breakfast before going to pack our bags. It's a shame to leave this hotel, it was one of the best despite the noisy trains all through the night.

 A long journey to Jaipur, though for once a four hour journey actually takes four hours. It's helped by the fact that tolls have been waived for the next three days while the currency emergency continues. At every town we pass we see huge queues at all the banks and ATMs, and Dilip is very angry at the way the government has penalised the lower and middle classes by his decision. Even though Dilip approves of the reasons for the rule, he's still not going to vote foe this PM at the next elections. He has hated the fact that in one night he, as well as most of the population, have been reduced almost to beggars. Even his wife is having problems buying vegetables as she has no cash.

Jaipur is a lovely city, and on arrival we drive straight to the Amber Fort which is about 11 km north of the city. The coach drops us off at a perfect spot for photos, then we transfer into jeeps for the rather hair raising trip up the hill to the fort. This was the home of the ruling family from about 1037 to 1728, which was when Jai Singh II built the city of Jaipur and moved the capital there.

The Fort has never been sacked or invaded as the family sided with the British at the time of the revolution and remained in power right up to independence in 1947. The paintings on the main gate from the first courtyard to the second, the Ganesh Pole, are still the original frescos and in astonishingly good condition. 

The first courtyard holds the Hall of Public Audience, then it's through the Gnesh Pole into the private quarters for the ruler and his wife, an exquisite hall decorated with mirrors, and with lattice windows overlooking the first courtyard. 

The third courtyard is the oldest, and was built by Man Singh I. Around the outside are the identical quarters for each of his 12 wives, and a confusing mass of corridors connect them and servants quarters (we think), more latticed balconys overlooking the town, and in one area a wheel and rope arrangement for bringing water up about four or five stories for storage in a huge tank.

The whole complex is fantastic, and we spend a happy hour exploring it's corridors and secrets and nearly getting lost. One of the best places we have visited, especially as we had no idea of what to expect.

Back on the coach we drive to our hotel, passing through the Pink City area (the original town as designed and built by Jai Singh II) and past "the palace of the winds". It's another ITC hotel, and is very grand, but charges for its internet, and this time we decline.

In the evening we go out with Chris and Sarah and John and Judith to the Copper Chimney restaurant, and very much enjoy getting there and back again by tuk-tuk.