We leave the hotel at 8am for the long drive to Agra. We pass through the Delhi suburbs, some of which are very pleasant, then pick up the highway to Agra and enter the state of Uttar Pradesh. Dilip tells us this is mainly a farming area where traditionally families are very large. It is also one of the most densely populated areas of India. Despite state education being free (and that includes uniforms, books and a free lunch) the rate of literacy is one of the lowest in the country. Families are now smaller, only generally eight children, but hopefully as the literacy goes up people will have even smaller families. We see miles upon miles of fields, plus several small brick factories.
On arrival in Agra we fight through traffic and get to the Agra Fort at about 12.30. Built in the early 1600s in red sandstone, Shah Jahne later added several buildings in white marble. We, and the crowds of other visitors, see the courtyards where the public audiences were held, and the private quarters of the Shah, his wives, daughters and concubines, plus the tower and courtyard where he was held for the last eight years of his life by the son (who had previously murdered his three brothers). The carvings are magnificent again, and we get our first view of the Taj Mahal through the slight murk.
After checking into our hotel it's back into the coach at 3.30 for an optional visit to the Itimad-ud-Daulah, the tomb built by Shah Jahne's second wife for her parents. Built out of white marble, and with inserts of coloured stones, it became the inspiration for Jahne's tomb for his first wife, the Taj Mahal.
We then drove to a garden directly opposite the Taj Mahal itself, and stood there watching the Taj as the sun set. Best thing was the kingfisher who posed in front of the Taj, worst thing was the mosquitos that came out. Well worth the visit though.
Tonight we are going to have the buffet in the hotel; we leave at 6am to see the Taj before too many tourists arrive!
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